Product care

How to care for your denim

The simplest rule: wash less, wear more.

Selvedge denim is built to age. Every wash removes some indigo from the cloth. This isn't damage — it's how fades develop. But washing too early or too often produces flat, even fading instead of the high-contrast patterns that make heritage denim distinctive.

Raw denim (ÀNYÈ, YĚMǍ)

Your jeans arrive unwashed and fully saturated with indigo. The fabric will feel stiff at first. This is normal — the cloth needs 2-3 weeks of daily wear to begin softening and conforming to your body.

First wash: Wait as long as you can. Many denim enthusiasts go 6 months or longer before the first wash. The longer you wait, the sharper your fade patterns will be.

Color transfer: Raw indigo transfers color to skin, furniture, and lighter fabrics. This is called crocking and it's a natural property of indigo dye, not a defect. It diminishes significantly after the first wash. Avoid sitting on light-colored upholstery during the first weeks, and be mindful of white sneakers.

Shrinkage: Expect approximately 3-5% shrinkage in length after the first wash, and minimal shrinkage in the waist (which will stretch back with wear). If you're between sizes, consider sizing up.

Washed denim (QĪNGYĀN, YÌNHÉ, TIĚMǍ, GŪFĒNG)

Your jeans have been pre-washed at the workshop. The major shrinkage has already occurred and color transfer will be minimal. The fabric is softer from day one, but will continue to develop personal fades with wear.

Washing instructions (all models)

When to wash: When the jeans are visibly dirty or begin to smell. For most wearers, this means every 2-3 months with regular wear. Between washes, hang them in open air overnight — this handles most odor.

How to wash:

Turn the jeans inside out. Use cold water only. Use a small amount of mild detergent — a dedicated denim wash or a gentle, fragrance-free detergent. No bleach, no fabric softener, no tumble dryer.

Hand washing is ideal: fill a bathtub or basin with cold water and a capful of detergent, submerge the jeans, agitate gently for a few minutes, drain, rinse with fresh cold water. If machine-washing, use a gentle cycle with cold water and wash alone.

How to dry: Hang by the waistband from a clothesline or hanger, in shade, away from direct sunlight. Direct sun bleaches indigo unevenly. Never use a tumble dryer — the heat causes excessive shrinkage and weakens the fabric.

Heavyweight models (20oz and above: YÌNHÉ, MÒYÚ, GŪFĒNG)

These are dense, heavy fabrics that take significantly longer to dry — allow 24-48 hours when hung indoors. They also have a longer break-in period. The first 3-4 weeks may feel rigid, especially the 25oz GŪFĒNG. This is the nature of heavyweight cloth. The fabric yields gradually and will eventually mold to your body in a way that lighter denim cannot.

Repairs

Good denim is worth repairing. If the crotch wears thin (the most common stress point), a local tailor can reinforce it with a simple darning stitch before it becomes a hole. If a seam opens, any competent tailor can restitch it. These repairs add character, not damage.

The long view

A well-maintained pair of selvedge jeans lasts years — often a decade or more. The cloth changes continuously: the indigo fades, the cotton softens, the texture loosens. At six months, your jeans begin to feel like yours. At a year, they feel like nothing else you own. This is the point.